The History of Pico Reef Biology

The 'tank' as of 24th February 2010
The idea for a truly long term micro/pico reef (for this article, one gallon or less) came to me as I was graduating college and searching the early internet forums for ideas on small reef aquaria in 2000-2001 to see what was possible and establish the current limitations of small marine aquaria. The smallest I could find, in the history of reef aquarium work altogether and in a lot of searching online, were 2.5 gallon tanks- some ranging back into the 1970’s (Thaler Puddle, Dr. Ellen Thaler for example) and an article on Reefs.org interviewing DC Potts about his successful pico tank from the late 90’s.
In 2001, even pictures of quickly-assembled gallon and half-gallon experimental aquariums (now common) were not available across the web, especially those using synthetic saltwater, so it was truly untested waters to work with half gallon aquaria that had to meet strict criteria to be valid in my opinion: they had to develop and sustain a diverse population of stony corals, benthic organisms and coralline algae, meet all water support needs with reasonable care (for example, no daily water changes) and they had to last-as long or longer than large aquaria without going eutrophic (high nutrient/algae dominated) relying on biology, not mechanical devices, to run the micro ecosystem. In hindsight they would break every rule the current establishment held against ultra micro aquaria, using simple science anyone could replicate, and the vast resources of the web had the friends I’d need to do it.
Lastly, they had to stand the test of master aquarists across the internet when reviewed-the technophiles like the guy at the rock concert who can tell when the guitarist messes up a single note. Emerging from all that scrutiny and time in preparation should be a new way keeping corals in the home…it’s still evolving as we all exchange ideas and new designs on blogs like this one.
The Reefbowl
One day when walking through Wal-Mart and thinking about design options, I noticed the curved 1.5 gallon vases for a few dollars and thought that would be a neat trial run, a seven dollar reef aquarium. When looking at the vase and thinking about substrates, pumps, etc it dawned on me the little plastic dishes I was using in the lab to keep pothos vines watered seemed the exact diameter of these large vases, maybe it would function like a lid if inverted? So I took the vase home, filled 1/3rd of it with oolitic substrate and saltwater and decided to bubble it instead of a pump, primarily I wanted to use gear I already had and the old aquarium pump happened to be there.
I knew not to add animals; this was just to test heating and salinity control. Well in four days the salinity had only increased from 1.023 to 1.024, the water line dropped only a quarter inch, and that was it-the design was lucky and worked perfectly with no further modifications. For the first time, a gallon reef aquarium had surpassed the top off requirements of a 100-gallon aquarium without complex equipment, and it was easily repeatable to anyone who wanted to try with common Wal-Mart supplies. The air stone met all the circulation requirements of the tank, it kept CO2 from accumulating so it lent strong pH support, it is the absolute ideal way to run a vase reef for these reasons, above any water pump. No animals in situ mind the air bubbles whatsoever… Normally, this combination of gear would be frowned upon in the established reef circles, so this presents another way to bend the rules unique to pico reefs.
The vase continued to evolve and it can be found by searching for anything with vase reef or reefbowl (non spaced) in the wording, there are thousands of threads about it all over the web because I spend a lot of time promoting, discussing and helping others replicate the art. My current vase reef is 4 years old and I expect it to run much longer barring hardware failures (knock on wood). Recently my friend Mark K. (Warlion) developed the vase even further by drilling the line access into the vase, rather than over the lip. This has added two more days between top offs, an unheard of maintenance schedule for any reef aquarium.
- 1.5 Gallon Vase from Walmart ($5.00).
- Add live sand and insert heater and airline tubing.
- Add live rock rubble.
- 6″ planter lid from Walmart ($0.35). Notice heater and air lines through grommets.
- Lid closed. Lit using Coralife Mini Aqualight with one 9W Actinic and one 9W 10,000K lamp.
- After the dust settles…
- The Reefbowl
- The ‘tank’ as of 24th February 2010
Additional pico reef photos can be found here.
The 1/2-gallon PalmTop Reef-No Evaporation
As the reefbowl sat and inspired me further, collecting simple corals that got along well, other ideas such as complete sealing came into mind and one day it snapped in my head to simply include a refugium as a rear subdivision in a tank, obscured by a false reef wall, to use photosynthesis to pump out oxygen under a sealed lid. This would bind respiratory waste CO2, stop evaporation altogether, it would bind up nitrogen and phosphates in the macro algae to some degree, and combined with weekly water changes (something not procrastinated if only one gallon and three minutes) the Palmtop Reef was assembled out of a special beta tank available at the time.
The first long term half gallon reef aquarium documented on the internet, and still the only fully documented sealed reef aquarium (non evaporating) of any size, this helped pico reef keepers find a unique niche among large-tank husbands who were once sure such a thing was impossible I could see in the web forums. Together online we worked out a carbonate dosing system for the micro tank which produced miniature acropora tabular growth and copious coralline algae, this indicated the ion support was spot-on even with no testing of any water parameters outside of salinity! My simplicity requirements had been met--no exceeded.
There was so much helpful input from other posters along the way to help me further my cause, Lunchbucket (Eric Peterson) is a fine example, he and I go way back in the reef forums (before 2003) and his tanks were a source of wonder for me as well along with many other board regulars who chimed in with support and help as needed …all the help needed was on the internet and for that I am so grateful.
Chemical/Physical Changes
Over the years in discussing forum threads about keeping marine aquaria in odd shaped containers, we are starting to see how shapes beyond the standard open square aquarium greatly change, and assist, the keeper if they are willing to make tradeoffs. The first tradeoff is fish, don’t use them in any pico reef is my best advice. I have experimented with fish like gobies before, and don’t agree they should be kept in ultra small aquariums. By excluding fish in the design, there are no size restrictions for aquaria that can grow scleractinian corals.
For example, the fluted vase reef design is an absolutely critical shape for many reasons. The slant of the neck above the water line and under the lid forms a catch surface where the popping bubbles eject various fragments and wastes from the water column; this can be wiped periodically and is essentially a functioning skimmer. The lid rests on the inner diameter of the vase neck, something not possible in square tanks, and this directs the splatter back down into the bowl and away from the edges where salt creep would form in the usual situation around a lid, and it also seals the tank, taking it from a 2x daily top off opened to a twice weekly top off with a lid!
Continuing the ways container shapes change the physicality of a reef aquarium, Orb-type nano reef aquaria reveal an ever-increasing surface area for evaporation to occur as the water level drops (small surface area when full, large surface area approaching the equator of the orb or bowl) so the salinity increase is on an apparent log-scale just like pH, it’s not a consistent evaporation rate when compared to a square tank. Evaporation rates between days 3-4 are markedly faster than on days 1-2 on a globe/orb saltwater aquarium after a top off because as the water level drops more surface area is exposed to amplify water loss.
For total salinity control, small containers that can be sealed, and subdivided for plant growth, are the right size to use small lights and pumps that would otherwise overheat a larger sealed reef attempt and these small containers are also dwarfed by a basic desk fan when cooling needs arise during summer months. Knowing these variables ahead of time greatly hastens reef work in odd or small containers; this is helpful to keep in mind.
Just to mention a few final observations, which are better left as subject material for expert marine biologists, pico reefs are also changing what we observe as allelopathy or “war mechanisms” in scleractinian or “stony” corals because of the concentration ratios seen in these tiny tanks. How is it possible for 15 genera of coral, plus assorted invertebrates and mollusks, to share a gallon of water day after day in between servicing for years and not nettle the water into a mucus-laden soup?
These answers can be found in the further study of pico reef biology, there should be lots more to come over the new year as others make their observations known and we all continue to create a collective knowledge pool for the matter.
In closing, some people feel the micro reef designation will soon become the most popular in the hobby for a number of reasons listed in common nano reef articles (cost/footprint etc). A keeper or a future keeper of pico reef aquaria will have done much online research to get where they want to be since that is the only material available on the matter, so this networking combined with the use of maricultured corals and tempered experimentation should continue to bring our hobby into new homes at an astounding, and ethically sustainable rate.
If you have any questions or would like to discuss pico reef biology even further, be sure to leave a comment below.





































19 Responses
That is so well written and it is fascinating to read as I have seen your tanks online for years now.
Thank you for stopping by, this forum is very interesting to me and I appreciate seeing my friends from ’space contributing to reefkeeping material
Great article! Reminds me of the ecospheres built by NASA more than 25 years ago. See also http://bit.ly/thqKr
Charles I didn’t know NASA started those, maybe to experiment with zg effects?
I used to see those for sale in our local mall. For $400 you could get the 1/2 gallon one but now I don’t see them in retail anymore. First one I saw was in ‘96. The shrimp impress me most with their fortitude and the way the seal them with living matter inside and maintain temps while doing so.
“Charles I didn’t know NASA started those, maybe to experiment with zg effects? ”
At their (ecosphere.com) website the state: “The EcoSphere is the result of technology developed by scientists at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory. NASA was researching self-contained communities for space explorers to live in during long-term space flights. Out of this research came the EcoSphere – an ecosystem of animal and plant life in perfect balance.”
At NASA (nasa.gov): “Many years ago, NASA scientists were studying ways to build spaceships that could keep astronauts alive for long space journeys. They wanted the environment inside the spaceship to maintain itself, producing food and oxygen for the crew and keeping the air and water clean and reusable. As part of NASA’s experiments, they discovered how to make a self-contained living world inside a closed glass container.”
I have been asked some tech questions about the systems via youtube and from a few other sites linked to the article. Thought Id post some bullet points to further describe the workings:
Thanks, please post any other tech questions or observations you may have
Brandon
Interesting update for allelopathy in the reefbowl and for pico reefs in general>
gonipora is not easy to house among stony corals, especially unskimmed as the books say, and it appears especially true for the pico reef. I had two prize frags begin to recede in the bowl, not directly touching, which were an acan and a frag of hydnophora I was fattening up. I lost 25% from each, upon removal of the goni I expect them to replate in a month.
recession began within the two weeks a very rare red morph of goni was introduced, it is a farmed plug among 5 new ones my LFS got in from local hobbyists. It did not stop warring, as other genera have, and its the only specimen Ive seen send chemicals or nematocysts outbound well enough to tax the other corals so it removed now with a water change.
With alveopora doing so well in the bowl (plating over from the rocks to the glass two inches) I wondered if it’s cousin would as well.
A litophyton once didn’t expand very well but other than that I have not come across a genus that was absolutely unacceptable for the bowl> now including this red goni.
Brandon
Hi Brandon:
Yes, I like your concept. I am new to reefing, but had long been kept from it due to the expense and large tank requirements.
siphon? What about harm to the inverts in the bowl? You say it takes only a few minutes to do a 100% WC.
I have seen a lot of small reefs on the internet, many of which are using some form of fuge with cheeto or somthing else being used. I really like the idea of doing away with all of that and let the reef be the reef, so to speak.
I am thinking about starting a 1.5 gallon reef, but I am curious just how you go about changing 100% of the water. Do you just dump it out?
And that you do not worry about testing, using c-balance. How exactly does your dosing work?
Think of me as inexperienced
I have limited space, ehnce the 1.5 gallon.
Do not intend to have fish, just corals and inverts.
Other tips, pointers? I am in no rush, since I will be getting the needed equipment and supplies slowly anyway.
Thanks,
Friar
Awesome reefs you have there!
Friar the page here has been loading incorrectly, I can’t get my mega-long response back to you lol
if this post goes through, just wanted to update we are setting one up via pm’s and pics, and my friend Friar is keeping a detailed log of every step as another hopeful verification of the repeatability I have mentioned above.
Excited!
B
Hey, amazing article. Love your vase tank!
I was thinking of starting a reef tank, and I need your help
I basically want the most minimalistic tank possible – thats the priority (not the type of corals etc). Its already seeming a little impractical for me so I just want the bare bare bare essentials needed – if it works out im sure i’ll expand.
.
1) Is a 3 gallon tank fine ? I think it will be ideal for me, I see you’ve used a 1.5 gallon – hopefully itll be easier to use a 3 gallon (or so) tank.
2) [dont laugh at this, im a complete newbie] How do I obtain the water for my tank ? I live next to a sea, but its really dirty. I dont think there are any shops in my city where i’ll be able to buy it from…
3) Is it neccesary to have some circulation/pump system like you have ? The problem is that this would warrant an electrical connection – not only will it clutter the space, but I want a completely eco-friendly tank.
4) What about the lighting ? I can place it at a window-sill, which has LED lights above it (3 feet). Is light required at night ? Cause then I can keep those lights on.
5) This calls for another problem, if the tank needs a lid, and light is coming from above, I need a glass lid of sorts ?
6) How do I get the rest of the materials ? The live sand (is it really neccesary?) the live rock, the corals etc. everything else. I really really doubt that theres any shop in my city where I can get any of that … really.
Well as you can see im facing MAJOR problems here … please can you help me out … I really really want to have one of these tanks … but it seems really impractical. Please help. You can reply to my e-mail, goodwood8@hotmail.com or just reply here. Thanks
I did not get a notification email, I may have been logged out of the auto-update system so I didn’t mean to miss your reply. Long posts usually won’t go through for me on here so if it doesn’t the reply w be emailed to you friend-
basically:
-we use synthetic salt for the reasons you mentioned. Controlling all the variables for nutrients and waste in the water…stores selling saltwater supplies are more common than ever, but if you are truly isolated then shipping $$ will make up for that, UPS ships nearly everywhere. I suggest trying to find some local aquarium keepers to see what they say about available products
-its possible to use ocean materials but this is a totally different science than aquacultured goods, detailed testing will be needed and holding tanks to age the marine goods into what a pico reef can support. Email me if you truly only have access to natural goods I have another friend on youtube doing the same thing.
-3 gallons is usually easier, but not always. Topping off evaporation in a 3 gallon tank is more work than in this 1.5 gallon system because of my lid design. its not less stable, its just more detailed daily work to trade off. The extra 2 gallons doesn’t do a lot for systemic stability but it can help somewhat.
-circulation is required. the airstone setup works only in this vase system, email me back if you must use a standard tank it can still work.
After posting this article we have MANY new pico reefs being built, some in vases and some not, and we’re all linked together. Friar’s pico reef is now maturing on nano-reef.com, Warlion’s vase is now 5 months old here’s his new vid!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPleEReXxfs
Hi! I have been admiring your setup for quite some time and finally have decided to take the plunge and start up my vase. I have kept tanks ranging from 2.5 to 135 gallons and have had a 5.5 gallon running for over 2 years, so I have some experience, but am not an expert by any means. I plan on using a very similar setup with the airstone, plastic lid, etc. but with 2 variations: 1. my live rock is “uncured” being shipped to me directly from the ocean, in water even in the shipping process to sustain the most life possible. I plan to do daily water changes at first to avoid a hard cycle. 2. Here’s the part that’ I’ve been struggling with the most–I’d like to do this as a sunlight tank. I have done quite a bit of research on sunlight pico tanks and I know temperature is going to be an issue. I don’t want to end up with an expensive chiller and can’t depend on evaporation for cooling, since the vase will have a lid. The placement I was planning on is an east facing window that gets direct sunlight in the morning and indirect for the rest of the day. The room is around 75 degrees in the summer time and around 62 in the winter (would plan on only using a heater during the colder months). Do you have any thoughts on the sunlight idea? Do the room-temperature air bubbles coming from the pump aid in cooling? Lastly, have you posted details on your magnet cleaner anywhere on the internet? I’d love to see a link if so.
I am so glad to meet you, and to finally get the trackback email- it worked! (I believe I have been forgetting to click that option lol)
Sunlit picos are a great challenge, after all the sun runs the real thing why so much trouble with our smaller models?? We don’t know yet, so if you attempt this mode it will be among a handfull of those documented online and we can brainstorm together ways to get it to work. Here is the best sunlit build I have ever seen, I wasn’t able to replicate it, my sunlit trials always resulted in green film algae on the glass regardless of water change consistencies. I had to give up on it for aftermarket lights unless someone finds another way (such as the directed solar tubes from a skylight, there are threads on those as well)
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?s=ca31078ff3ae81c36ee1177537320913&showtopic=69492&st=300
Tinyreef’s build has tons of good reading, for a reefbowl we can just try it out if you’d like but I recommend getting a small reef light only because I know that works.
The cleaner magnets–>nothing online but here’s the build:
take apart a mag float nano algae cleaner, by sawing or prying it apart, take out two matching round magnets and locate the attractive sides.
on a paper plate, place each one attraction side down on opposite sides and drip them with nearly dried epoxy glue. when dry, cut out the shapes for each magnet from the paper and glue on some abrasive to the inside magnet and some felt padding to the outside one. paint the outside one black with magic marker if so inclined
curing in a reefbowl:
must have an ammonia test kit, thats how you will know if dieoff is occurring, and if it’s outpacing your surface area with nitrifying bacteria. I suspect it will not if its cared for like you said. You are using heavily populated real live rock, so it doesn’t make much sense to cure it for a month in a dark container but that’s one option which is basically starting clean. the other option I’d do is to put it in the bowl and don’t add anything else for a couple weeks, but do your coupled feeding/water change regimens like this video shows because these benthic rock animals will dieoff less, if there are foodstuffs in the water to sustain, I recommend cyclopeeze only because its what I use:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuIIPFeUd2Q
if at the end of two weeks running, all systems in place, you don’t register any detectable ammonia, then you can add a few corals and then the next week again checking ammonia maybe a small invert. don’t stack it too fast, my bowls take years to get this dense in the pics and vids.
Yes I believe the air bubbles aid in cooling, but only because we’re working at a gallon of water, any more and it wouldn’t help much. lack of lighting will certainly contribute to cooler runnings additionally but also present that unique challenge of algae battling. the MAIN contribution of the constant bubbling, when you can trap it with a correctly-fitting lid, is pH support by constant carbon dioxide removal. Bubbling sample water is a means of checking CO2 retention, so in this environ C02 is consistently blown off.
let me know if this works I will check back Angela~
Brandon
Wow, thanks for getting back to me so quickly Brandon and for your very informative response. I have followed tiny reef’s 2.5 gallon tank that you linked to and also his 1.25 gallon tank very closely and that’s actually what got me thinking I would need a chiller, since I believe he utilizes one in his 1.25 gallon. But, perhaps the air bubbles would help in this case. Here’s what I think I’m going to do. I’m a little protective of this special uncured rock that I ordered and concerned about killing off some of the fun hitchhikers, so I am going to use a light on that vase and keep it out of direct sunlight. However, I actually do have another vase that is about 3/4-1 gallon capacity that I think I’ll try the sunlight idea with. We have plenty of cured live rock laying around in the sump of our big tank and I even have a spare air pump/stone so there really wouldn’t be any cost involved, therefore if the tank crashes I’m not going to be heartbroken. If nothing else, it will make for a fun experiment. Maybe the slightly smaller water volume will benefit even more from the cooling effect of the air bubbles? Only time will tell!
Its great you will be running two of them try to link us up to pictures if you can
I have seen those smaller vases shaped just like the large ones, and Ive also seen smaller lids down to about 4 inch diameter just about right its the little plastic dishes to set plants in from the garden center
I get mine at a grocery store for 33 cents
perhaps the best reason to keep a pico reef vase is because the workloading on the keeper is so low once its established and really instantly from startup. the small size makes a 100% water change replace all the known gear from skimmers to exchange resin beds to filters both mechanical and biological its really handy what full water changes do. once or twice a week, 3 mins work each time in a vase with a quick drain port in the lid (corked lol) and a ten year lifespan would not suprise me its my personal goal anyway…
I found this awesome new coralife mini aqualight…it’s a T5 fixture as an upgrade to the PC fixture that has been around for years. The bulbs should last longer and it should run a little cooler. Plus it uses less electricity and puts out more light…what more could we ask for? http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RES36013 It looks like they just became available in the last few days.
I just need to get out to find a lid for my mini vase and I will start a thread somewhere and include a link in your responses here, Brandon. One thing I found interesting is that with this vase shape it seems like you can fit a lot more rock. I ordered 1.5 lbs and it looked tiny in there so I had to get a little more. I probably have at leats 3-4 lbs in there, which would be a lot for a similarly sized rectangular tank. This is probably one of the contributors to the vase being such a stable environment.
Trackbacks